Bakuchiol Skincare Makeup in Eco-Conscious Packaging

Why did you decide to incorporate the bakuchiol skincare makeup range into the existing Dr.TWL range of makeup products?

My personal preference is to use a well formulated CC cream over foundation anytime. Actually, the best makeup brands now are moving away from just coverage to skincare benefits when it comes to foundation. The term foundation in my opinion may be outdated. Or, you could put it this way, CC cream may be the better, more modern term to use for an all-encompassing foundation that also delivers skincare benefits. 

We know that the CellTalk CC cream contains physical blockers which block UV rays on a broad spectrum level. However, we are careful not to market it as such because this is not a product we create for sun protection. We ought to consider sunscreens ought to be a medical, therapeutic product because an ineffective sunscreen is disastrous for an individual as it can lead to increased risk of skin cancer. 

However, what CC creams are good for is in fact delivering skin nutrition. For those who may find themselves lazy with skincare routines and applications. Most women feel more confident with some foundation or concealer coverage. The best thing about the CC cream is that it is highly buildable. Therefore, it can be as lightweight as you want it to be or as heavy duty as necessary without looking cakey, a built in property of the foundation itself because we infuse it with all the skincare goodies that repair the skin barrier.

Pigmentation is a common concern in Asians. Bakuchiol skincare originated from K-beauty. Tell us more about how it can help with hyperpigmentation.

Women are naturally insecure about perceived physical imperfections. Foundation isn’t bad, neither should we be forcing someone to strip their skin bare just so they can “learn to accept themselves”. That is my personal opinion after years of being a dermatologist, and being a woman myself. Rather, we should respect what the individual is comfortable with, and focus instead on skin health. 

Asian women are concerned about pigmentation, perhaps more so because Asian skin types are more prone to developing post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, also known as PIH. This is where we can use bakuchiol skincare makeup as a multifunctional cosmetic.

In a study conducted, bakuchiol decreased pigment intensity and surface area over the 12-week treatment course. This may be attributable to bakuchiol’s antioxidant effects, as well as its ability to disrupt melanin synthesis. Bakuchiol is able to interfere with two steps of the melanin synthesis pathway and reduce melanin production, hence being an ideal ingredient for use in both anti ageing and anti-hyperpigmentation cosmeceuticals.

Is bakuchiol the new retinol? 

While the few studies published have shown that bakuchiol is a promising natural retinol alternative, we only have data of how it compares to retinol, not any other retinoids. Tretinoin, a form of retinoic acid, is a prescriptive retinoid that treats acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines, largely due to its potency. Tretinoin is much more potent, and does not need conversion into an active form in the body, unlike retinol. Therefore, while bakuchiol may be a promising natural retinol alternative, it is generally regarded in dermatology literature that it still cannot replace prescription retinoids. However, when it comes to indications for application, retinoids are prescription only and are limited by adverse reactions;. It is also unsafe to use in pregnancy and breastfeeding. This is why the introduction of the Bakuchiol Skincare makeup range is relevant for our consumers at the pharmacy. 

Are there any potential side effects of bakuchiol skincare?

While in most studies, bakuchiol is generally considered to be less irritating than retinols, there is still a possibility of irritation. As it is with every single ingredient in use with skincare. To illustrate, there have been 2 case reports of contact allergy to bakuchiol cosmetics since June 2019, published in the Journal of Contact Dermatitis. However, the risk is much lower than that of retinol/retinoid based skincare, which carries risks of 2 types of allergies.

True allergy known as allergic contact dermatitis, and the second type of allergy is related to skin irritation known as irritant contact dermatitis. It is generally the recommendation, especially for those with a history of allergies, to perform a patch test before trying out new ingredients or skincare. We can easily do this by applying a small amount of the product on skin of the inner arm or under the jawline, for at least 4 hours to check if there is any reaction.