Skincare Bible: Skin Cleansing 101 According to a Dermatologist

Ultimate Workbook for Skincare Bible

Skincare Bible: Dermatologist Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare is now available in its second edition on Amazon, featuring brand new chapters and bonus focus tutorials. Get the accompanying Skincare Bible Workbook in an exclusive box set. The Beauty Bible Series is a complete skincare education collection written by board-certified dermatologist and international beauty KOL Dr Teo Wan Lin, designed as a comprehensive curriculum for beauty enthusiasts and skincare professionals. The following contains excerpts from Skincare Bible and Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, the latest release in the Beauty Bible Series for skin experts. 

Skincare Bible Definitions: What is double cleansing?

Double cleansing is a 2 step process which involves first removing makeup and sunscreen, followed by a second cleanse. The first cleanse focuses on oil soluble pigments, sebum, grime whereas the second step focuses on removing the residue. The primary goal of cleansing is to restore the healthy skin microbiome—a balance of good and bad germs. However, it is equally important to respect the skin barrier. In particular, an ideal double cleansing regimen should not strip the skin of moisture. Rather, it should cleanse skin and restore moisture levels. 

Skincare Bible Definitions: What are the types of facial cleansers?

The three main categories of facial cleansers are

  • Foaming surfactants
  • Oil/emulsion “milk” cleansers
  • Micellar cleansers

Skincare Bible Definitions: What is the key purpose of cleansing?

Cleansing is the single most important step in any skincare regimen which is also the most misunderstood. The goal is not to degrease or cleanse away bacteria. Rather it is a step that helps to 

  • rebalance sebum levels (remove excess)  
  • maintain a healthy microbiome (balance of good and bad bacteria

Why is healthy skin regarded as ‘dirty?’ Should we be concerned about bacteria?

When it comes to microorganisms, it is the competition between the good and bad that determines if a harmful skin condition such as infections occur. For instance, in the case of acne, it is not merely bacteria that drives the disease. Cutibacterium acnes is present on healthy and acne-prone skin. However, it is only in the latter group that it drives excess inflammation that leads to comedone (whitehead/blackhead) formation.

Skincare Bible Second Edition

In the original FAQ style, the second edition of Skincare Bible: Dermatologist’s Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare promises a comprehensive curriculum for beauty enthusiasts and skincare professionals alike to master the essentials of basic skincare consultation. 

Skincare Routine Steps for Sensitive Skin
@drteowanlin Skincare Bible: Skin Cleansing 101 What is a mild skin cleanser? How do you choose the best cleanser for your skin? What cleansers should you avoid? The Skincare Book For Women—Discover Beautiful Skin With Dr.TWL's Skincare Bible Series "Skincare Bible: Dermatologist's Tips on Cosmeceutical Skincare is a compilation of my research, clinical experience managing complex dermatological conditions and expertise as formulator of one of Asia's leading clinical skincare brands," Dr Teo Wan Lin, founder of the Beauty Bible Series by Dr.TWL®. SECOND EDITION The second edition of the skincare bible includes specialised Focus Tutorials on two new modules Skin Resilience & Skin Barrier Repair with extended question and answer practice for advanced practitioners. Get the updated paperback and hardback versions with Dr.TWL’s advanced note-taking template and access to supplementary online learning material. #skincarebible #skincarebook #skincareroutine #skincleansing #facialcleanser #skincareroutine #skincareactives #skincareactives101 #skincareingredients #skincareingredient #singaporedoctor #dermatologist #singaporedoctors #skincare #dermatologist #tiktoksg🇸🇬 #skincareroutine #skincaretips #skincare101 #skincareproduct #dermdoctor #learningsfun #learnontiktok ♬ original sound – Dr.TWL Dermatologist

Skincare Routine Step 1 Makeup Removal
The Skincare Bible contains the latest on cosmeceutical research, empowering you with the science, simplified to take you from basic to advanced levels in a single handy reference book .

I have sensitive skin, what type of cleanser should I use?

Choose amino acid or botanical-based surfactants. For example, honey, soy and botanicals, which contain saponins (soap-like compounds), are natural emulsifiers, which means it creates a foamy texture. Foam cleansers are preferable for those with combination/oily skin. However, care must be exercised to avoid those high in laureth sulfates (sodium or ammonium) as these chemical surfactants dehydrate skin and disrupt the skin barrier. The key here to note is that virtually all foaming facial cleansers contain laureth sulfates, even those which dermatologists recommend for sensitive skin—it is the concentration and the formulation that matters. 

Skincare Routine Step 2 Second Cleanse

Dr.TWL Pharmacy’s Miel Honey Cleanser contains only a low dose of laureth sulfates compared to commercial cleansers yet it retains remarkable foaming properties—because of the addition of honey which is a natural emulsifier. It is ultra-gentle and leaves skin feeling hydrated because it contains other actives designed to repair the skin barrier while cleansing skin. The Honey Cleanser, formulated as an ideal foaming cleanser, includes hydrating ingredients such as natural moisturising factors, glycerin and anti-inflammatory botanicals like Artemisia.

Which type of makeup remover do you recommend? 

Both micellar and oil-based emulsions are designed for efficient removal of makeup, often referred to as the first step of the double cleanse. The commonest match for skin types is: sensitive/combination skin—milk cleansers; combination/oily skin—-micellar cleansers. In my dermatology practice however, I find that almost all micellar cleansers cause skin irritation/dryness regardless of the brand.

For all problem skin, including acne-prone oily skin types, micellar formulations involve increased contact with chemical surfactants and also friction that is induced when a textile (cotton pad usually) is used to physically wipe off the makeup residue. This is why I stick to recommending milk cleansers for ALL SKIN TYPES, in the context of the double cleansing model. The Le Lait Milk Cleanser includes additional camphor which has a soothing and calming effect on the skin barrier. The oil in water texture means that it leaves a sticky residue on skin. This further acts as a protective barrier that prevents skin irritation/dryness with the second cleanse. 

Skincare Ingredients Dictionary

The Skincare and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary is the perfect companion to the Skincare Bible. In this course, learn to choose actives tailored to individual concerns such as inflammation, dryness, acne and sensitivity.

Complete Cleansing Set

Our complete cleansing kit contains the best-selling Milk and Honey Cleansers. They contain power-packed actives such as Artemesia vulgaris for anti-inflammatory, anti-flaking effects and natural medical-grade honey. Honey functions as a natural emulsifier and provides an antibacterial effect. In addition, the milk cleanser effectively removes makeup without dehydrating skin with skin soothing camphor 

How does micellar water work? 

Micellar water works by hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving) properties of a micelle. The makeup residue is attracted to the water-hating aspect. This is best thought of as a ball that is wrapped up which continues to roll on skin grabbing the residual pigment and dirt. To remove the ball which is a micelle, you use a cotton pad. Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin.

Skincare Bible Workbook

The Skincare Bible Workbook is the ideal companion workbook to the Skincare Bible. It contains 150 guided worksheets and exercises, dedicated self-test sections with answer key, worksheets accompany brand new illustrations created for visual learners. In addition, learn to answer difficult skincare questions like an expert with at-a-glance concept maps. Fill in the blanks, create your own mind maps and index cards for on the go quick learning and revision. Dr.TWL teaches you the art of scientific note taking like a pro—the key to true content mastery. 

Dedicated self-test sections with answer key, worksheets accompany brand new illustrations created for visual learners. Learn to answer difficult skincare questions like an expert with at-a-glance concept maps. Fill in the blanks, create your own mind maps and index cards for on the go quick learning and revision. Dr.TWL teaches you the art of scientific note taking like a pro—the key to true content mastery. 

Should I use a pure oil or an emulsion ‘milk cleanser?’

Pure oil cleansers are often too greasy. Consequently, my choice is an emulsion or a milk cleanser. Milk cleansers are oil in water formulations, the oil component dissolves makeup pigments and removes excess sebum. The “like for like” principle here is that oil soluble pigments dissolve in a similar substance—an oil in water emulsion.

The benefits of an emulsion are that it is less greasy than pure oil formulations. It is also effective as a humectant if formulated with moisturising ingredients. When you physically rub off the makeup on a cotton pad, the oil component protects your skin. It acts as a barrier between the cotton pad and skin, hence reducing friction unlike with micellar solution.

What is the best type of cleanser to pair with a milk cleanser for the second cleanse?

This step is best paired with a natural emulsifier like honey or soy, or similar botanical emulsifiers. The process of generating a foam can help improve the cleansing experience, so users feel thoroughly cleansed. However, using chemical lathering agents like laureth sulfates can strip the skin of natural moisture and cause dysregulation of oil production. This can sometimes lead to the oily dehydrated skin phenomenon.  Amino acid based lathering agents are also gentler on skin.

Skincare Bible Workbook: The Ultimate Brain Gym for Beauty Experts

Check out the brand new release Skincare Bible Workbook, the latest addition to the Beauty Bible Series. Do you know the importance of keywords? Dr.TWL teaches you the art of effective scientific note taking by learning how to select keywords using her novel technique—for complete mastery in a short time frame. Learning is fun, embrace creativity in the process and you will be surprised at the difference it makes.

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