Ingredient Spotlight: PEPTIDES

What are peptides?

Peptides are the foundation blocks of building of skin, they are made of an active chain of amino acids which are constituents of proteins. Peptides are also involved in almost every biological cellular process, transmitting signals that directs other cells what to do. Because of that cellular regulatory function, Peptides have created breakthroughs in skincare products especially in the realm of anti-aging products. For example, the Palmitoyl Pentapeptide sends signals that tricks the skin into thinking that it has not enough collagen. This triggers collagen production which aids in plumping the skin and creating a more youthful appearance.

What is so special about peptides?

Different types of peptides serves different functions. Their multi functionality makes them a key ingredient for effective skincare more commonly used in anti-aging products. Peptides can also be used as exfoliants, brighteners, for firming, hydrating and for several other benefits.

Oligopeptides in Skincare

Oligopeptides (a specific type of Peptide of an intermediate length of two to twenty amino acids) have been proven to mediate certain biological processes in the epidermis and dermis, the different layers of our skin. They are also potentially therapeutic solutions for skin problems.

Bioactive peptides are synthetic peptides which are widely used in skincare as it is is an ingredient that can take many forms, in that it can be modified. This allows the creation of different peptide combinations through amino acid substitutions. They can also be altered to cater to different levels of potency, toxicity, and solubility. As a result, it can target specific cellular mechanisms and augment skincare objectives, with minimal side effects which other biological substances cannot do.

Exfoliating and Brightening Peptides

Until recently, retinol was used commonly as an ingredient in skincare or treatments to create skin exfoliating and brightening benefits. However the down side to it was that it can cause skin irritation with such cases frequently reported.

What promising research has uncovered is that,  hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate is a peptide that could promote all the great benefits of retinol without causing skin irritation. This ingredient promotes skin exfoliation by countering excessive proteins that are involved in holding skin cells together. The peptide then weakens the intercellular connections and contributes to getting rid of dead skin. Oligopeptide-68 also contain functions of enzymes that lighten the skin, eliminate dark spots and mediate melasma (dark spots on the skin), which helps to give the skin a more youthful and brighter appearance.

Anti-aging Peptides

Peptides are also used to prevent wrinkles by stimulating collagen that resembles ‘Botox-like’ results. There are many neuropeptides that prevents wrinkles and aging of the skin. They can reduce sodium intake which relaxes facial muscle and moderates the contraction of them which decreases formation of wrinkles and firmness of the skin.

The membrane between the epidermis and dermis relies on extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins which mainly holds cells and organs together. The ECM serves as a transmitter of signals to trigger cell reactions that promotes growth. A huge attribute of Peptides is that this ingredient can repair any damage done to the ECM by regulating protein synthesis, such as collagen which is a type of protein, and cell differentiation.

Aging skin shows signs of decreased collagen production and increased collagen degradation. Collagen proliferation occurs much slower in aged skin compared to young skin. Peptides come into the scene by repairing signal systems to enhance skin rejuvenation.

Oligopeptides and tetrapeptides form a combination that control cells involved in collagen production and hyaluronic acid. They reduce excessive redness of the skin and when paired with collagen, they ensure skin plumpness, radiance, hydration, cell stress-relief and even promote smoothness of the skin.

Promising Alternative to Botox

Botulinum neurotoxins (also known as botox) functions with controlled muscle paralysis by preventing acetylcholine release at nerve-muscle joints that conveys signals to the muscles. Excessive use of botox and without proper care of a dermatologist, can also cause unwanted side effects such as muscle paralysis.

Alternatively, effective use of Peptides is a good risk free alternative to reverse signs of aging without unwanted side effects. Synthetic peptides that produce the amino acid of synaptic protein SNAP-25 have been proven to show signs of inhibiting neurosecretion. This means that there may no longer be a need for invasive injections that could damage cellular tissues and membranes of the skin. There has in fact been positive result from studies proving that peptides derived from SNAP-25 have achieved noticeable inhibitive impact with neurosecretion, thereby also achieving some extent of facial muscle relaxation – research has proven that it reduces wrinkle depth up to 30% after a month’s worth of use of the topical Peptide.

Peptides are the star ingredient for dermatologists’ in their pursuit of reliable and effective skincare. Through development of new peptides, this ingredient has proven to have great benefits and are extremely multi-functional, targeting various aspects of the skin to produce anti-aging effects.

As a dermatologist-tested and formulated brand, Dr.TWL Dermaceuticals incorporate peptides extensively into its line of cosmeceutical skincare products such as the Elixir-V series, firstly to help patients with sensitive skin to achieve healthy youthful skin, and now extended to the masses via e-commerce at, with the same pharmaceutically infused ingredients for desired anti-aging benefits on the skin through the safest, non-invasive methods. 

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