Would you recommend people with acne prone skin to use products with oligopeptide or niacinamide?
Yes. Firstly, oligopeptides have shown potential health benefits to combat inflammation, wound healing, angiogenesis and antimicrobial defense. In the physiology of acne, wound healing plays an important role in the recovery of skin cells from inflammatory effects triggered by a bacterial infection. The quicker the healing of the infected and compromised skin cells, the less the cumulative inflammatory response and inflamed red pimples which is the symptom of acne. A more prompt wound healing also decreases the probability of scarring of the skin which is a common consequence of acne.
Topical niacinamide has been shown to be useful in treating acne vulgaris with its anti-inflammatory, sebum reduction and healing properties. Oil production is one of the main factors for comedone production which is a precursor of acne. Niacinamide can significantly reduce sebum excretion rates and facial shine as studies have shown, helping to lower the number of comedones and papules on the face. Furthermore, niacinamide has also shown to decrease trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). This is a process where the skin loses water to the surrounding atmosphere, through diffusion and evaporation. Niacinamide improves the skin barrier function and decreases TEWL, increasing skin hydration that leads to reduction of sebum production, thus beneficial for patients with acne conditions.